REGARDLESSof any lifetime prejudices the one thing which can be said for Citroen is that whenever the world of car design is looking like an EEC approved straight banana, up pops something to tempt the most jaded of palettes.

Now obviously from time to time this has taken on the guise of a mad man without trousers running through the fruit and veg aisles; there have been instruments from outer space and interiors from planets with orange and green skies, not to mention attempts to defy gravity with oil and air suspension systems.

For many this has been all just a bit too gauche and no matter what amazing point of sale offers were on - buy one get my house free, that sort of thing - customers steered a more conservative course.

So in a world where the minimalist, a la Peugeot 208 cabin layout, is what the punters are told they want, we find Citroen retaliating via its prestige DS badge, strange fruit which is easy on the eye outside but nothing short of inspired inside.

Enter the latest DS 5. Well go on, enter it, at least Citroen has not gone down the hiding the rear door handles crazy road. In fact on the outside the DS is good looking but hardly likely to bring about any neck twisting injuries. Inside is salvation for all those frustrated fighter pilots mourning the passing of Saab's red glow illuminations.

Honestly, from the squared off steering wheel to the banks of switches mounted in the roof all that's needed is a plastic cup on elastic bands to talk into and you are your very own Top Gun. The central console makes a statement all of its own and the verdict will be either too much fuss or what a lot of fun.

What is more it is all finished in a quality which emphasises DS is serious about becoming Citroen's Lexus; soft touch materials, leather seats and steering wheel although for me you can keep the flattened bottom.

If there is one other let down with the DS 5 it is the way the cross-window spoiler restricts rear vision. I found myself reverting to the exterior mirrors. But then it would not be the fruit of its French designers' loins without something a bit pointless.

There are three diesel engines but if you want an automatic box then it has to be the turbocharged Blue HDi 180, two-litres, 180bhp and six gears which is not a package which combines to make for out and out sprinting, not at 9.9 seconds to 62mph but keeps the car in touch with reality.

More interesting to business and family buyers alike is the fact the Prestige version comes with all you could want at £32,000 yet attracts only £30 a year tax. Average consumption is claimed to be 64mpg. I got 49mpg.

There is a lot of equipment, none of it particularly unusual. A seven-inch touchscreen controls functions like the sat -nav and cameras. There are alarms aplenty, lighting for every mood and full entertainment. The head up display is an extra but you may feel without it something is missing, Mr Cruise.

The DS is a refined drive, a bit too much crashing and banging on some surfaces, but generally relaxed. This is not a car for slinging in to the corners, roll is kept in check but it runs out of front end grip sharpish. Look, this is the French government car of choice. It is for gliding not dodgems.

There is plenty of room for rear seat passengers but the boot space is not up to that of the BMW and Mercedes rivals DS is going after.

If you think the DS 5 is too rich for your blood you are probably the sort of person who won't buy bent parsnips and thinks Hugh Fernley Whittingstall should shut the fructose up. I say dare to be different but don't expect your local supermarket to stock them any time soon.